October 20, 2016

Cabled Headband Hat w/big Button -free crochet pattern-


Here it is, my version of the crochet cabled headband slouchy hat with a great big button! I've been making this hat for over two years now, and it's still my top seller at local craft fairs, markets, and custom orders.  I've honestly been making it free form and from memory, but recently decided to actually write it down so that I can share it with you.  It's a very cute hat, and only requires knowledge of the basic stitches, plus the crab stitch (otherwise known as rsc - reverse single crochet) and working over post stitches. The highlight of this hat, really, is the giant button.  You can find them in all sorts of places, but I buy mine online from a Canadian (because I'm in Canada and shipping is faster to me) yarn company called knitca.com  

Designed By: Farrah Hodgson

Skill Level: Intermediate

Materials: 
  • 1 ball of Loops & Thread Impeccable; color Soft Taupe used in pattern; 277 yds/253 m; 4.5 oz/127.5g (or similar)
  • *Note: I usually use Red Heart Super Saver, but this yarn was on sale, so I gave it a shot :)
  • Crochet Hook Size 4.0mm (G/6) 
  • Crochet Hook Size 5.5mm (I/9)
  • 1- 50mm button
  • Yarn Needle for sewing ends
Size: Fits Teen/Adult head

Finished Measurements: Hat- 11 inches long; 10 inches wide; headband 4 inches wide

Gauge: With Crochet Hook 4.0mm (G/6); 16dc by 8 rows = 4 inches

Stitches Used:
  • Ch=Chain
  • Sc=Single Crochet
  • Hdc=Half Double Crochet
  • Rsc= Reverse Single Crochet (crab st)
  • *tog= crochet next 2 sts together to decrease
  • Fpdtr=Front Post Double Treble (yarn over 3 times)
  • Fpdc = Front Post double crochet
  • Bpdc=Back Post double crochet


My most popular color (Red Heart Super Saver, color Aran)


THE PATTERN!


HEADBAND


Pull yarn approximately 12 inches to leave a long beginning tail (use for sewing button later)

Ch 19

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next 15 chs.

Row 2: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), turn; fpdc over next st, dc in next 3 sts, fpdc over next 3 sts, dc in next st, fpdc over next 3 sts, dc in next 3 sts, fpdc over next st, dc in last st.



Row 3: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), turn; bpdc over 1st post st, dc in next 3 sts, bpdc over next 3 post sts, dc in next st, bpdc over next 3 post sts, dc in next 3 sts, bpdc over next post st, dc in last st.



Row 4: (CABLE ST) ch3 (counts as 1dc), turn; fpdc over 1st post st, dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog over next 2 sts,(note: to close gap) skip over first 3 post sts and the 1dc- fpdtr over next 3 post sts, dc back in skipped dc, fpdtr in first 3 skipped posts, dc2tog over top of last post st and next st, dc in next 2 sts, fpdc over next post st, dc in last st.

Help Note: dc2tog over the next dc and the next "post st" but not working over the post, but into the actual stitch. This dc stitch will be worked again in the cable, but over the post next time.


Help Note: The "top of last post st" means to crochet into the actual stitch, not the post of the stitch (which was already worked in the cable) this stitch gets worked twice, over the post in the cable, and in the actual stitch as part of the dc2tog.


Row 5: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), turn; bpdc over 1st post st, dc in next 3 sts, bpdc over next 3 post sts, dc in next st, bpdc over next 3 post sts, dc in next 3 sts, bpdc over next post st, dc in last st.

Row 6: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), turn; fpdc over 1st post st, dc in next 3 sts, fpdc over next 3 post sts, dc in next st, fpdc over next 3 post sts, dc in next 3 sts, fpdc over next post st, dc in last st.

Row 7: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), turn; bpdc over 1st post st, dc in next 3 sts, bpdc over next 3 post sts, dc in next st, bpdc over next 3 post sts, dc in next 3 sts, bpdc over next post st, dc in last st.




Rows 8-11: repeat rows 4-7
Rows 12-15: repeat rows 4-7 
Rows 16-19: repeat rows 4-7 
Rows 20-23: repeat rows 4-7 
Rows 24-27: repeat rows 4-7 

half way there


Rows 28-31: repeat rows 4-7 
Rows 32-35: repeat rows 4-7 
Rows 36-39: repeat rows 4-7 
Rows 40-43: repeat rows 4-7 
Rows 44-47: repeat rows 4-7 
Rows 48-51: repeat rows 4-7

Row 52: Ch1, turn; sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, fpsc2tog, fpsc over next 3 sts, fpsc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog.

Row 53: Ch1, turn; (sc2tog) 3 times, sc in next st, (sc2tog) 3 times.

Row 54: Ch1, turn; sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. DO NOT FASTEN OFF!



BORDER

Switch to larger hook (5.5mm I)

With right side facing,

Row 1: Work a sc at each of the edges (ends) of last 2 rows;





-working along the edge spaces (of dc and ch3 at beginning and ends of the rows); (sc in next side space, 2sc in next sp) along the row ends, sc in last space. (78sc)



Row 2: Ch1, working backwards; rsc in front loops only for next 70 sts;



rsc through both loops next 8 sts, continue to rsc along edge next 5 sts, working along opposite side, work a rsc in each next 2 end of rows;



 (2rsc in next sp, rsc in next sp) along row ends, 2sc in last sp, (78rsc);



continue up edge.....  ch1, turn (wrong side facing) (skip next st, bpsc over next st) 8 times, sl st in 1st rsc loop. DO NOT FASTEN OFF!



HAT

Rnd 1: Turn; fold band over, right side facing, and begin in 1st back loop of the rsc sts, sc in next 70 sts. do not join.



-working in continuous rounds....

Rnd 2: (hdc in next 6 sts, 2hdc in next st) 10 times. (80hdc)



Rnds 3-12: hdc in next 80 sts. do not join.

Rnd 13: decrease (hdc x 6, hdc2tog) 10 times. (70hdc)

Rnd 14: decrease (hdc x 5, hdc2tog) 10 times. (60hdc)

Rnd 15: decrease (hdc x 4, hdc2tog) 10 times (50hdc)

Rnd 16: decrease (hdc x 3, hdc2tog) 10 times. (40hdc)

Rnd 17: decrease (hdc x 2, hdc2tog) 10 times. (30hdc)

Rnd 18: decrease (hdc x 1, hdc2tog) 10 times. (20hdc)

Rnd 19: decrease (hdc2tog) 10 times. (10hdc)

Rnd 20: decrease (sc2tog) 5 times. (5sc)

Fasten off! Sew in ends.

Sew large button onto headband of hat with the very beginning tail of yarn.

*Note: The button is purely decorative, it does not fasten into a hole.


Camo! (Red Heart Super Saver)

acting silly with my mannequin head form :D

31 comments:

  1. Thank you for the lovely hat pattern. Very much appreciated!

    ReplyDelete
  2. this pattern is very nice thanks for providing it for free love the pictures with it i am still a beginner and with the pictures it made it very easy to understand the written pattern, thanks again i can see myself making many of these as gifts

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  3. Thank you so much! This hat is gorgeous ! I just finished mine and may not ever take it off!

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  4. This looks like a great pattern! Do you allow others to sell the hats they make from it?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Absolutely :) I only hold rights of the pattern itself, you can make and sell as much finished product as you wish!

      Delete
    2. Awesome! Thank you so much! This has to be the most gorgeous slouchy hat pattern I've seen!

      Delete
  5. I am having trouble on row 3 cable stitch where you dc2together top of post, by chance do you have a YouTube video?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't have any videos yet, but I will try to clarify...

      "dc2tog over next 2 sts" You dc2tog over the next dc (where normally you would just work 1dc), and the 1st post st. But instead of working over the post, you are working into the actual stitch. This stitch gets worked twice; after it becomes part of the 2dctog, you then work back over the post of the same stitch when you are cabling.

      When you get to the other side of the cable, you do the same thing, just in reverse, dc2tog over the last worked dc (you already worked over the post in the cable) and the next dc.

      All this does, is close up a gap in the finished cable. If you prefer to do it the regular way and don't mind a bit of a gap, you can just do this...

      Row 3: (CABLE ST) ch3 (counts as 1dc), turn; fpdc over 1st post st, dc in next 3 sts, skip over first 3 post sts and the 1dc- fpdtr over next 3 post sts, dc back in skipped dc, fpdtr in first 3 skipped posts, dc in next 23 sts, fpdc over next post st, dc in last st.

      Hope that helps you out!

      Delete
    2. last line--- "dc in next 3 sts (not 23!) typo :)

      Delete
  6. Nice pattern. There are two rows marked Row 2

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. yes, there is :D Thanks for pointing that out, I will fix. :) Thanks!

      Delete
  7. I'm having a problem understanding the border. I can't come up with 78 sc's since I can't quite figure row 1 out. Can someone please help????

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Row 1: Work a sc at each of the edges of last 2 rows;

      -The last 3 rows of the headband, were worked in sc's instead of dc's, so you're just working a sc along the ends of those rows. Where you end at the headband, it takes care of that last sc row, (there's 3) so just work a sc in each of the next two.

      -Then the ends or edges along the headband (where each row began or ended and turned) will either be a dc stitch or a ch3 stitch, you are working into these ch3/dc spaces.

      To be honest, it really doesn't matter if you get exactly 78 sts, close to that is fine! It will not impact the design whatsoever, any stitches beyond 70 will be part of the button flap, a stitch or two off will not be noticeable.

      I hope that helps!

      Delete
    2. I am also stuck on this part. I'm still not getting it. We're at the end of the headband and I don't know where to go from there

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  8. Im so lost once it gets to the hat part. I did the rsc how it stated but when you say to have right side facing up and first stitch back loop im at the more squared end of the head band to i connect the to to move forwards?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Im with you. Im not understanding how to connect or where to connect to start the hat part. I have it folded over, but not sure if im supposed to be back post single crocheting or if im supposed to just regular single crochet OVER the rscs? Totally lost! lol

      Delete
    2. Yes, you should be at the square end of the headband. Remember when you worked 70 rsc, in the front loops only, then the rest were in both loops. Right side facing, skip those full rsc stitches, and the 1st hat stitch (and the rest of the rnd) is in the back loops of the 1st border rnd. This will join the headband around. Look at the picture from rnd 1 of the hat. It shows this 1st st being joined.

      Delete
  9. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  10. Yeah Im completely lost beginning the hat part. I ended at more squared off section, then turn to right side is facing and fold over like in the picture..but now dont understand exactl where to join it? Am I going over the rsc stitches? Am i supposed to bpsc in the next 70, like behind the rscs? Totally lost on how to start or connect this part! Thanks!! :-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. you are working (sc) in the remaining back loops from the 1st border rnd. That's why you've only rsc 'd in the front loops of those 70 sts on the 2nd rnd.

      Delete
    2. Oh my gosh, cant believe I did not get that. Thank you so very much! Totally understand now! :D

      Delete
  11. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It just means to do a regular rsc through those sts (instead of just the back loops like the last 70)

      Delete
  12. what is the length of your headband? My measurements are coming out completely different. Also 1-54 seems very long.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. have you checked your gauge? The headband should be long enough to go around your head plus a bit of overlap.

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    2. The gauge is correct, I adjusted the length to my head measurements and I have a rather big head. The headband width is the same also. I loved the look of the rsc so I continued it all around the band instead of just on top. I also deleted the extra dc in between the posts. It kept becoming tangled when doing the cable. Thank you for the free pattern. Do you have any more that are free?

      Delete
  13. Thank you for sharing!! Your work is impeccable! I love giving people my crocheted things as each one is crocheted with love in the stitches. Every female in my family daughter granddaughter and my siblings girls my nieces all got messy bun beanies or hooded scarves , hooded cowls , depended on age and looks.. lol I enjoy customizing because no they know it's made just for them ;, like I say~ with love in each stitches. I put a tag in that says''Hand Made by Loving Stitches just for you !

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  14. I forgot to put in, they got them for Christmas lol

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